Rock Sound was great; next stop: Governor’s Harbor!
Start: Anchorage, Rock Sound, Eleuthera Island, 0752
End: Anchorage, Governors Harbor, Eleuthera Island, 1237
Total Distance: 25.3 nm
Average Speed: 5.3 kts
The morning is dead calm when we awake. Barely a breeze and the water is without a ripple. Which, on one hand, is good news–no waves to deal with as we make our way north to Governors Harbor. But, on the other hand, if you are a sail boat, a lack of wind kind of blows. Or not, as it were. So motor day it looks like for our trip.
It is a gorgeous, sunny morning once again. We pull up the anchor and head around the point and onto the banks. We have to take a short detour to the west to avoid some charted rocks/coral heads1, but after an hour set Andy to due north. We put out the sails when we round the point and get a little help with a breeze and go from two to one engine and then to just sails for an hour. Then one engine back on for the remainder of the trip. No drama, no fuss.
We get into Governor’s harbor and the wind is coming from the West, which is weird. The harbor isn’t protected from west wind, but it is light and forecasted to switch south, so we pull in as close to the beach by town as we can, drop the anchor and back up over the sand in about 4 feet of water. Set.
We neglected to get lunch on the way so our first activity for the day is to find a restaurant. We dinghy to shore and pull our dinghy up on the beach, away from the breaking wave(lets). Then we head off to Buccaneers, a dining establishment just three blocks from our boat.
The restaurant is nice. Inside and outside seating. Clean. Busy. With a whole bunch of wait staff that swarm on us like the flies we have come to expect with a dinner outdoors in the Bahamas.2 And it becomes apparent that this place (Governor’s Harbor) has two things that we haven’t seen so much to date. First is a large group of tourists/expats and the like. And second is money. Not laying in the streets, but certainly floating around somewhere.
Take the restaurant. The tables are pretty full and exclusively with people not from the Bahamas. And all, with the exception of the three of us, quite well coiffed and smelling suspiciously as if they have bathed sometime in the past 24 hours. The wait staff is quick–drink orders are taken in seconds, food order in minutes and the food is delivered to our table within 10 minutes. Which is certainly not the morn. Every other place we have been to has been on island time. Drink/food order when they are ready. Food delivered within an hour. Or two. Waiter/waitress may check on you. Or not. It was all great and a lovely place, but more like we teleported closer to America than in the Bahamas.
And as we walk around the town and over to the ocean side ‘pink’ beach, we can see huge homes dotting the area. Luxury cars. And resorts. And tourists. Driving cars or golf carts from resort to beach. Laying on the beach and walking around town. We spend the afternoon at the ocean side beach and hiking around town. And then retire to the boat for dinner and relaxation time–the couple mile hike up and down hills in the heat has tapped us all out. We need to recover before we head out again tomorrow.
1Those are ‘bad.’
2When you eat at a restaurant outdoors in the Bahamas, you get, along with your delicious food, a side order of flies. One minute you are at a table fly free, then food arrives and the flies descend. To combat the flies, you are also given one or two cans of lit sterno delivered to your table, usually just prior to, or with, your food. The lit sterno cans keep the flies mostly at bay. Of course, they are also invisible open flames that can burn like a SOB if you reach across to grab some ketchup. Or grab your drink. At least one of us has burned most of his (spoiler) hair off his right arm. Multiple times.