My snarky comment about Rock Sound yesterday was something along the lines of ‘rustic beauty, without the rustic.’ We were wrong. It is awesome and it is, as always, people who make it so.
We awoke after 9am this morning. Long travel day yesterday and the electronica garbage nighty-night music meant we were all a bit tired. Lucky and I puttered to the beach, walked a bit down the road. And it looked nice. Like 180 degrees different than last night. People were waving. Sun was shining. It was a good day.
Back to the boat for coffee, breakfast and then all of us piled into the dinghy and headed into shore. Our first stop was a cave located just south of town so a good walk for all of us. Inside the cave was interesting. We thought there were stalagmites in the cave, but it was the trees from the top of the dome that had shot roots down into the bottom of the cave to get water and nutrients. Just outside the cavern was a blue hole that got water from the ocean.
Then back to town to another blue hole, this one filled with fish from the ocean who would about jump out of the water for fish food. Then back to the boat and we move to a different anchorage–we don’t want to be serenaded by the loud music another night. And then errands: Jan and I head off for the nicest grocery store we have seen since the USofA and I shuttle some cans of gas and water back and forth to the boat.
Showers all around at at 5pm we head off to the dinghy dock. Dinner tonight is at Nort’ side restaurant. The deal is you have to call Rose before noon and get a reservation. She will come to the dock to pick you up and take you the mile and a half to her house on the ocean side. We called earlier and had reservations for 5pm. Or island time 5pm, which turned out to be 5:25pm.
Rose arrives, we hop in her car and head out to the other side. Rose is the cook, the maid, the cleaner, and proprietor of the restaurant and two guest houses set atop a hill overlooking the ocean. We made a quick stop in town so she could feed her chickens; they came running to the car when she pulled in the driveway. Of course, this will end badly for them whenever someone chooses ‘chicken’ off the menu.
Speaking of menu: When we called, Rose asked us if we wanted fish, chicken or conch. We have had a lot of conch and chicken is found everywhere, so fish it was.
We pull up in the car and are greeted by two dogs and a cat. Page was the one of the three animals that followed us around the property and ’smiled’ at us (which we thought was a growl or snarl, but were assured was a smile). As we walked in the house, Rose gave us a choice with fish. Fish fingers or fish cooked in okra and onions. We all looked at AJ who stepped up to the plate–fish in okra and onions it would be. She disappeared into her kitchen and we headed down to the ocean to walk along the beach.
Back to the house and our food is presented and it is fantastic. Fish (as described), peas and rice, plantains and cole slaw. When she found out AJ wasn’t a fan of the peas and rice, Rose disappeared in the kitchen to whip up some fries. And she sat with us as we ate dinner and told us about her life on the island and her family. Five kids, nine grandkids spread out all over the world. Husband passed away for 18 years. At some point she pulled out the photo album and we got to see pictures of her wedding, he husband, kids and grandkids and the coup de gras, a picture of Rose shaking hands with Nelson Mandela. Rose also gave us a class on how to make peas and rice and other Bahama food.
But eventually it was time to go, and we all hopped into her car and headed back into town. And on the way back we got a tour of the town and not just the place but the people. Because she knew everyone and stopped to talk to almost every person, even if it was just a passing hey.
She left us at the dinghy dock and we took a short ride back to the boat. Our day here is complete and it was awesome. We totally misjudged this place yesterday–it rocks!