Start: Killarney Mountain Lodge Marina, 0920
End: Baie Fine, East End before entering the channel to the pool. 1345
Total Distance: 21.3
Average Speed: 4.8 its
Killarney is the unofficial beginning of the Northern Channel which provides passage between killarney and Drumond Island, 138 miles to the west. It is less densely populated than the Georgian bay, there are less cottages, and more opportunities to anchor out amongst some of the oldest rocks in the world. And, of course, the opportunity to leave marks on our hull from those ancient rocks. We have loved the anchorages out in the Georgian bay and are looking forward to more desolate anchorages on this part.
It is day three of the easterly winds. And clouds. And rain. And rolling waves. Not conditions that we would have thought we would have left port if you had asked us three months ago. But the east wind pushes us in the direction we want to go, the waves are following (for the most part) and the rain provides a cleansing shower to those of averse to taking an actual shower in the marina (AJ).
We were woken rudely (again) by rain at 0500, so up onto the deck to close windows. While I was up there, I stepped on hundreds of ugly bugs all over our deck. They looked like a sick cross between a moth and a scorpion. And they were hanging off every available surface. But at 5am, what are you going to do. So back to bed until a more decent hour and when we awoke and looked out our windows, we were staring eye to eye (or eye to beak) at two seagulls. My first inclination was to beat on the boat to get them to fly away, but as I watched, I realized the duo was eating all of those sick moth-ions off our boats. So rock on seagulls, rock on.
We have some breakfast, check out and are off. The morning start doesn’t go terribly smoothly. Killarney is on a narrow channel running east/west. We were on the east side when we left, wind pushing. We got out of the channel into a little bay and put up both our sails. But our course had the wind directly behind us so either we had to sail off the course a bit to get the wind on one side of the boat (good for a large body of water, not so much for channels) or had to manage the sails so that we didn’t have an inadvertent jibe. Neither was in our cards for today, so we turned to put down the main. It came down, but there were some waves which were pushing us towards some rocks which led to some excitement (and by excitement we mean stress). Once the main came down and the stress level reduced, we puttered the four hours to our current location.
A small digression. It is now Saturday morning (15 July). I’m sitting at our salon table enjoy a cup of coffee and looking out at a cloudless blue sky and calm water. And I’m also looking at Jan eating Wheat Thins for breakfast. Because, according to her, ‘they are almost like cereal.’ In that they have some sort of grain I suppose. Back to the story…
Our first port of call is the Baie Fine. Pretty sure it is French for ‘fine bay,’ but I parley vous not at all. Baie Fine, according to our cruising guide, is one of the few fjords in North America and it certainly is impressive. It was six miles from the entrance at the west to where we anchored at the east end, and the hills rose straight up from the deep water. The bay goes on another two miles, which we did by dinghy, to a place called the Pool. A protected anchorage surrounded by silence, hills and trees. It was gorgeous. We counted all the boats that we saw on the lake and the total was ten. Five in the pool. Three (including us) anchored at the west end, and two anchored two miles from the east end. Ten boats on a huge, eight mile fjord. It was cloudy when we arrived, by as I type this at 7pm, the western skies are clearing and tomorrow looks great. I’m not sure there is anyplace better.
We anchored and the closest boat to us is Split Pace. Paula and Bronson from Florida, who we ran into on the Trent Severna and also in Killarney. Once we anchored, we puttered over to their boat to say hi. Their original plan had been to stay one night here but once they saw this place they decided to stay longer.
We took the dinghy back the couple miles into the pool, scouted out a trail to explore on Saturday when the weather is better and then tied up to a bunch of rocks and went exploring. We found some blueberry bushes, but since none of us could remember what an actual blueberry bush looked we only ate one apiece and waiting for the vomiting or diarrhea. Tomorrow we take a container and pick them for pancakes!
Then back to the boat where we put a pot of ‘What is in the small store or cupboard spaghetti.’ When we were in Killarney there was exactly one general store that, according to the writeup, was a very expensive place to reprovision. We needed a couple of things for our dinners out until we hit Little Current (next best place) so we went shopping. And it was, as advertised, expensive. And limited which makes total sense given how far it is from any large population center. So we cobbled together ingredients from the small store and from what we had in our pantry and fridge to make some spaghetti.
What is in the small store or cupboard spaghetti
1 big can of crushed tomatoes (marked up 300% at the little store at $4.00 can)
1 salsa jar (repurposed into a container) of fire roasted tomatoes left over from a meal 2-3 weeks ago. Very little fuzz on the top of the tomatoes; very positive sign.
1 small bag of hamburger (or some kind of ground meat) from the little store. Probably 3/4 pound. $5.00
1 small $2.00 onion chopped small. Almost zero mold.
Handful of baby carrots, chopped small
One $4.50 box of pasta shells from the little store
Spices from the boat stocks.
Results were excellent.
Remainder of the night was spent playing Uno (and since we couldn’t remember the rules, we made up our own version), killing mosquitoes that have infested our cabin, listening to the loons calling out across the water and watching the actual sun (which has been not see for a couple of days) set behind the hills. Since the clouds appear to have broken, it looks like a good day for tomorrow!